The method
Mount a 50–100 g sample on a mannequin or clamp. Wash with a clarifying sulphate shampoo, no conditioner, using downward strokes only. Rinse fully, air-dry, comb from ends upward with a wide-tooth comb, and record. Repeat for ten cycles. Do not use heat, do not use conditioner, do not use detangling spray — every one of those masks the result.
What to record each cycle
Comb drag: does the comb pass freely or catch? Knot location: random knots are handling; knots at a consistent point on the shaft indicate mixed direction. Shine: gradual dulling is normal, a sharp drop between cycles three and six indicates coating loss. Shedding: count strands lost per cycle. Texture change: does the hair begin to feel dry or straw-like at the ends?
Reading the result
Genuine cuticle-aligned Remy shows gradual, linear change across ten cycles and remains comb-free. Coated commercial hair typically holds through three or four cycles, then degrades quickly. Machine Remy sits between the two and should be judged against its own price point, not against virgin.
Run the identical protocol on every supplier you are evaluating, including us. A comparison is only meaningful if the method is fixed.
Buyer Questions
How long does the test take?
About four to six hours with air-drying, or two days at a relaxed pace.
Can I use conditioner at all?
Not during the test. Condition afterwards if you want to see recovery behaviour, but the diagnostic value is in the unconditioned cycles.
